This book aims at re-examining the issue of 'everyday resistance'
through the lens of women's experiences in colonial South Asia. The
overwhelming image of Indian women during the period is one of
passivity, with the exception of some outstanding figures. The attempt
in the present volume is to unearth a narrative of deeper and more
enduring resistance offered by less extraordinary women in their daily
lives. In a breathtaking collection of essays key scholars in the field
bring together evidence from a range of unconventional sources such as
women's songs, photographs, and embroidery, but equally from legal
records, memoirs, and published work, to present women in far more
assertive and/or subversive roles.
The volume is, however, as
much about the nature of power as it is about women. Inspired by both
subaltern and gender studies, it tries to highlight the complex ways in
which power operates within oppressive structures, making any simple
valorization – and for that matter, theorization – of gendered
resistance difficult if not impossible.
Ellie and Amina are best friends. But when Amina
decides to start wearing the hijab, it attracts the attention of the
bullies. Now Ellie's loyalties are being tested. Has Amina changed? Does
it matter if best friends have different beliefs? Is she ready to stand
up for Amina? A thought-provoking story about friendship, religion and
modern life.
FEW sartorial choices are scrutinised as closely as those of Muslim
women. Their clothing is regulated both in countries where Islam is a
minority religion, and in those where it is professed by the majority.
France bans face coverings, thus outlawing the niqab,
which leaves just a slit for the eyes. In Iran, a theocracy, and Saudi
Arabia, a monarchy reliant on clerical support, women must wear a hijab (head covering) and abaya (long
cloak) respectively. Only last year did Turkey partially ease a ban,
dating from Ataturk’s founding of the modern secular state, on female
civil servants wearing headscarves.
Most Muslim women want to dress modestly in public, as Islam
prescribes. But increasing numbers want to be fashionable, too. That is
partly because of the relative youth and rising prosperity of the
Islamic world. A growing sense of religious identity also boosts Islamic
style. The Islamic revival of the 1970s, and then a shared sense of
persecution in the aftermath of the September 11th attacks, led many
Muslim women to wear their hearts on their sleeves, says Reina Lewis, an
academic at the London College of Fashion and editor of “Modest
Fashion: Styling Bodies, Mediating Faith”. Many say that Islamic dress
is better suited than their country’s traditional garb to modern life.
“The hijab helps women be treated for their minds, not their looks,” says Aziza Al-Yousef, a Saudi professor.
The result is a specialised and fast-growing offshoot of the fashion
industry. New designs of burkinis—head-to-foot swimsuits—and modest
wedding dresses come out each season. Videos on YouTube demonstrate how
to create a “beehive” hijab, a headscarf given extra height by the addition of anything from a carton to a hairpiece. Magazines such as Egypt’s Hijab Fashion feature luxury abayas. Iran is full of local brands from female designers.
The internet and the idea of a Muslim umma,
or global community, help to create styles that know no borders. But
some trends do not travel. A Turkish craze for long denim coats has
largely passed neighbouring Syria by. The shopping malls of conservative
Riyadh overflow with different shapes of abaya customised with coloured trim. In more cosmopolitan Jeddah black abayas jostle with green and navy ones, often jazzed up with leopard-print trim or zip-fronts inspired by sportswear.
Dubai, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur all host Islamic-fashion shows.
Interest is spreading beyond the Islamic world, too. London and Paris
recently started their own events, and this year saw America’s first
Islamic Fashion Week. Mainstream styles are being influenced, too. John
Galliano’s couture collections and H&M, a high-street giant, have
featured turbans and Middle East-inspired designs.
Luxury designers have been quick to profit. Waad Ali, a Qatari
designer, says she noticed a boom in high-end fashion designers from the
Gulf when she graduated from Doha University in 2010. She joined their
ranks and today her clothes and abayas sport $550 price tags. Gulf women who cannot afford such prices can at least wear what they want under their abayas,
from skinny jeans to slinky tops; and Indonesia, Malaysia and Turkey
all have fashionable chains selling mass-market clothing tailored to
local Muslim tastes. But elsewhere high-street fashion for Muslims
generally means the more modest lines in non-specialist shops.
Mainstream retailers are missing a trick, says Ms Lewis, by overlooking
an increasingly attractive market.
Fashion is intertwined with the debate about what Islam prescribes
for women’s clothing. Most Muslims read the Koran as describing the
Prophet Muhammad’s wives as covering their hair; only some interpret
this as a command to all women. For the most conservative, the very
concept of Islamic fashion is anathema. Some imams post criticisms in
online forums of women who wear skinny jeans or lots of make-up, even
together with a hijab, since they attract
attention. Others retort that Allah created beauty and that pretty
clothes help dispel the misconception that all Muslim women are
oppressed.
COTTON,
cool, soft, comfortable, the principal clothing fiber of the world. Its
production is one of the major factors in world prosperity and economic
stability. Cotton "breathes";. What would we do without cotton?
Since cotton wrinkles, polyester was added to give it wash and wear
properties for a busy world. In recent times, the consumer determined
that polyester, although easier to care for, took away the cool from
cotton and also added a "pilling"; effect to cotton/polyester blends.
Consumers now often request "100% Cotton";. Permanent finishes also
added to the all cotton fabric gave a wash and wear property to cotton.
cotton. The cotton fiber is from the cotton plant’s seed pod The fiber
is hollow in the center and, under a microscope looks like a twisted
ribbon. "Absorbent"; cotton will retain 24-27 times its own weight in
water and is stronger when wet than dry. This fiber absorbs and
releases perspiration quickly, thus allowing the fabric to
"breathe";. Cotton can stand high temperatures and takes dyes easily.
Chlorine bleach can be used to restore white garments to a clear white
but this bleach may yellow chemically finished cottons or remove color
in dyed cottons. Boiling and sterilizing temperatures can also be used
on cotton without disintegration. Cotton can also be ironed at
relatively high temperatures, stands up to abrasion and wears well. Cotton hijabs are popular in the summer months while polyester ones are worn all year long.
Silk
SILK,
the fabric that makes its own statement. Say "silk"; to someone and
what do they visualize? No other fabric generates quite the same
reaction. For centuries silk has had a reputation as a luxurious and
sensuous fabric, one associated with wealth and success. Silk is one of
the oldest textile fibers known to man. It has been used by the Chinese
since the 27th century BC. Silk is mentioned by Aristotle and became a
valuable commodity both in Greece and Rome. During the Roman Empire,
silk was sold for its weight in gold. Today,
silk is yet another word for elegance, and silk garments are prized for
their versatility, wearability and comfort. Silk, or soie in French, is
the strongest natural fiber. A steel filament of the same diameter as
silk will break before a filament of silk. Silk absorbs moisture, which
makes it cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Because of its high
absorbency, it is easily dyed in many deep colors. Silk retains its
shape, drapes well, caresses the figure, and shimmers with a luster all
its own. Contemporary
silk garments range from evening wear to sports wear. A silk suit can
go to the office and, with a change of accessories and a blouse,
transform into an elegant dinner ensemble. Silk garments can be worn for
all seasons.
Silk
-- elegant, versatile and washable. In the past, owning a silk garment
meant not only the initial price of the garment but also the cost of dry
cleaning. All silk is washable. Silk is a natural protein fiber, like
human hair, taken from the cocoon of the silkworm. The natural glue,
sericin, secreted by silkworms and not totally removed during
manufacturing of the silk, is a natural sizing which is brought out when
washing in warm water. Most silk fabrics can be hand washed.
Technically, silk does not shrink like other fibers. If the fabric is
not tightly woven, washing a silk with tighten up the weave.... thus,
lighter weights of silk (say a crepe de chine of 14 mm) can be improved
by washing as it will tighten up the weave. A tightly woven silk will
not "shrink"; or will "shrink"; a lot less. Silk garments,
however, can shrink if the fabric has not been washed prior to garment
construction. When washing silk, do not wring but roll in a towel. Silk
dries quickly but should not be put in an automatic dryer unless the
fabric is dried in an automatic dryer prior to garment construction. A
good shampoo works well on silk. It will remove oil and revitalize your
silk. Do not use an alkaline shampoo or one which contains ingredients
such as wax, petroleum, or their derivatives, as these products will
leave a residue on your silk and may cause "oil"; spots. If static or
clinging is a problem with your silks, a good hair conditioner (see
above cautions) may be used in the rinse water.Silk
may yellow and fade with the use of a high iron setting. Press cloths
and a steam iron are recommended. Silk is also weakened by sunlight and
perspiration. Some Turkish scarves used as hijabs are made of silk.
Wool
WOOL brings
to mind cozy warmth. Some wools are scratchy giving some people the
idea that they are allergic to wool. Although wool fiber comes from a
variety of animal coats, not all wool’s are scratchy but rather
extremely soft. The wool fibers have crimps or curls which create
pockets and gives the wool a spongy feel and creates insulation for the
wearer. The outside surface of the fiber consists of a series of
serrated scales which overlap each other much like the scales of a fish.
Wool is the only fiber with such serration’s which make it possible for
the fibers to cling together and produce felt. The same serration’s
will also cling together tightly when wool is improperly washed and
shrinks! Wool will not only return to its original position after being
stretched or creased, it will absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture
without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and
tailoring, making the wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine
garments. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many
weaves, resists wear and tearing.
Basically,
there are two different processes used in wool production. Woolen
fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen,
will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsteds.
Blankets, scarves, coating, and some fabrics are considered woolens.
Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not
sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer
than woolen. Worsted wool’s require a greater number of processes,
during which fibers are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother,
harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of
fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for
athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but
actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb
perspiration and the fabric "breathes"; unlike polyester.
WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS, although still classified as wool, are further classified by the animal the fiber comes from.Alpaca fleece is very rich and silky with considerable luster. It comes from the Alpaca.Mohair
is from the angora goat and is highly resilient and strong. Mohair’s
luster, not softness, determines its value. Mohair is used in home
decorating fabrics as well as garment fabrics including tropical
worsteds.Angora wool is from the angora rabbit. This soft fiber is used in sweaters, mittens and baby clothes.Camel
hair is from the extremely soft and fine fur from the undercoat of the
camel. Camel’s hair can be used alone but is most often combined with
fine wool for overcoating, topcoating, sportswear and sports hosiery.
Because of the beauty of the color, fabrics containing camel’s hair are
usually left in the natural camel color or dyed a darker brown. Light
weight and soft, it is said that a 22 oz. camel fabric is as warm as a
32 oz. woolen fabric.Cashmere
is from the Kasmir goat down. Separation of the soft fibers from the
long, coarse hair is tedious and difficult, contributing to the expense
of the fabric. The soft hair is woven or knitted into fine garments and
can also be blended with silk, cotton, or wool. Vicuna
is the softest coat cloth in the world. The amount of coarse hair to be
separated from the soft fibers is negligible and yields the finest
animal fiber in the world. Vicuna is a member of the Llama family and is
small and wild. Since it is generally killed to obtain the fleece, it
is protected by rigorous conservation measures. This fiber is rare and
very expensive, costing several hundred dollars per yard.
This book aims at re-examining the issue of 'everyday resistance'
through the lens of women's experiences in colonial South Asia. The
overwhelming image of Indian women during the period is one of
passivity, with the exception of some outstanding figures. The attempt
in the present volume is to unearth a narrative of deeper and more
enduring resistance offered by less extraordinary women in their daily
lives. In a breathtaking collection of essays key scholars in the field
bring together evidence from a range of unconventional sources such as
women's songs, photographs, and embroidery, but equally from legal
records, memoirs, and published work, to present women in far more
assertive and/or subversive roles.
